Love the name. After a long, fruitless slog wherein I walked for a few hours from Pest to Buda via Margit Island only to find Csalagony 26 closed for summer vacation I’m at loose ends.
I decide to continue walking up into the hills of Buda to see if I can stumble upon someplace interesting where I can have a nice meal.
After a half hour or so I’m at a high point of Buda and taking in some very interesting architecture when I spot Vörös Ördög. I recognize the name from my research so I decide to have a go at the menu.
The Red Devil has a nice courtyard with all sorts of devil arcana, nice landscaping and large comfortable tables. I’m the only patron so the waitress puts the hard sell on a pre-fixe menu which is not to my liking. I ask for a bowl of goulash, am warned that it’s tiny, order a Dreher and set back to relax and take in the scene.
American band REM comes on the PA leading me to wonder if the bad music invariably played in public in Budapest is some sort of celestial recompense for Hungary’s pagan past?
My giant bowl of goulash arrives shortly and it’s a beauty. The broth is brilliant red and chock a block with chopped potatoes, carrots, onions and beef. The vegetables are the rustic, rough hewn style prep, the beef low grade but good and meaty.
An angry chef comes out of the back and dresses the waitress down for a bit before settling into a chair and puffing like a chimney.
As this is my introduction to Hungary’s most famous dish I take it nice and slow and savor every bite of the bright red, fatty broth. Little bits of re-hydrated paprika have settled onto the bottom of the bowl. I use a hunk of bread to swarp these up as I polish off my meal.
A light rain starts to fall as I take my leave. I stand near the restaurant taking some photos when the angry chef walks onto the street and into a frame as I snap the picture. He scowls and curses into the cellphone he’s talking on. I’m grateful I don’t know Hungarian as he’s really letting somebody have it.
I take my leave before we settle who the bull cook is on the mean streets of Buda.
1014 I. Orszaghaz u. 20
Red Devil restaurant has shuttered