She had the air of someone who speaks the truth.
Breakfast King is that classic, old-timey diner like the Golden Nugget in Chicago, Joe Jr in NYC or Connie’s in Birmingham (RIP)
They’re infallible.Open 24 hours a day, the best of these restaurants feature a coterie of grizzled, Pall Mall-smoking line cooks, and, like as not, waitresses who will all be wearing matching polyester ‘lunch lady’ outfits.
It’s nearly a hundred degrees, and good AC sweeps over me as I make my way into the diner.
Service is top flight at Breakfast King. I’m at the Formica counter for a maximum of two seconds before a gum-snapping gal in a pressed, white polyster uniform dress inquires as to my coffee needs. The scene is straight out of Jim Thompson’s ‘The Grifters’Over the next half hour I’m topped off at least five times.
Denver is chile country, and I’m determined to eat as many pepper-based dishes as is possible. I ask after fried eggs with chile verde sauce. Moments pass before a breakfast platter is set down before me.
A slow-cooked stew of braised pork and chiles has been ladled over a pair of fried, over-medium eggs. It’s unfathomably delicious. The roasted chiles have been cooked down and seasoned with little more than salt. At some point the cook threw in a good measure of finely cubed pork which made a boon companion with the peppers as the entire melange slowly became a sauce.There’s a whiff of a heat-based burn that comes on ten minutes into the feast.
Decent tortillas provide the sop.
This is how they’ve been eating on Denver’s Front Range for the past 150 years.
The crowd at Breakfast King is pretty tame during the daytime but I imagine the scene changes a bit as the bars close and the room fills with folks jacked up on meth, ecstasy or are just plain liquor-drunk.Such is the nature of 24 hour eateries across the U.S.
Despite Breakfast King’s relative youth, diners do not come any more classic than the old Denver bacon and eggs stronghold. The only thing that was missing from the experience was a good jukebox playing Red Foley, and an ashtray on every table. But a few years back the puritans made their play in the Mile High City and the decent folks stepped out of their way.
Breakfast King’s Address:
1100 S Santa Fe Dr, Denver, CO 80223
Breakfast King’s telephone number:
Hours of operation: